Bakuchiol or Retinol — which is better tolerated and equally effective for mature skin?
The pivotal study is Dhaliwal et al., British Journal of Dermatology 2019 (DOI 10.1111/bjd.16918). Over twelve weeks, 44 people applied either bakuchiol 0.5% twice daily or retinol 0.5% once daily. Evaluation was carried out using a standardized photo analysis system at four time points, supplemented by the assessment of a blinded dermatologist.
Result: Both substances significantly reduced wrinkle area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the groups. Under retinol, participants reported scaling and burning more frequently. This picture was confirmed by the systematic review of Ratanalertnavin and Noppakun, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2021.
Bakuchiol does not act via the retinoic acid receptor but instead induces a retinoid-like gene expression pattern (Chaudhuri and Bojanowski, International Journal of Cosmetic Science 2014).
In The Cream, bakuchiol is formulated as the lead active. It is the ingredient with the strongest evidence level in the entire range — which is why it comes first.
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