What is NMN, what does the research show, and what applies legally in the EU?

NMN (nicotinamide mononucleotide) is a direct precursor of NAD⁺. In controlled human studies, oral doses of 250 to 900 mg per day increased the NAD⁺ concentration in the blood. Endpoints investigated included, among others, walking speed, insulin sensitivity and sleep quality.

What we don't claim: Sirtuin activation in humans was not measured as an endpoint in these studies — it is a mechanistic hypothesis from preclinical models. In addition, a twelve-week placebo-controlled study found no significant change in skin AGEs or oxidative stress markers (Katayoshi et al., Scientific Reports 2023). And there is no human study directly comparing sublingual and capsule administration; the widespread claims of a several-fold higher bioavailability are not supported by data.

The sublingual form was chosen for formulation reasons: no capsule material, no flow and release agents, gradual dose adjustment.

Legal status: In the EU, NMN is currently not approved as a novel food. In May 2026, EFSA published a positive safety assessment for a specific product; the European Commission's decision is pending and will be product-specific. We communicate this status openly.

What does NMN do in a face cream — is there evidence for it?

NMN (nicotinamide mononucleotide) is a direct precursor of NAD⁺, a redox cofactor of cellular energy metabolism. For topical application, one peer-reviewed paper is available: Betsuno et al., Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2025 (DOI 10.1111/jocd.70222). In it, NMN permeated an artificial skin membrane model and was detectable in the region of the papillary dermis by means of MALDI imaging; in human dermal fibroblasts, the formation of collagen type I increased under NMN treatment.

What we don't claim: Both are in-vitro findings. A published clinical study on topical NMN application in humans does not yet exist. In addition, NMN is a strongly polar molecule; in the specialist literature, skin permeability is discussed controversially, which is why lipophilic derivatives are being developed.

In The Cream, NMN is therefore classified as a building block of cellular energy supply — not as a proven anti-wrinkle active. That role is taken by bakuchiol, for which a randomized human study is available.

Note: The novel food status of NMN concerns foods exclusively and is of no relevance for cosmetic applications.